Make It Yours: 9 Simple Adjustments to Make Your Sled Fit Just Right

“Hey, do you mind if I take that sled for a rip?” As somewhat spoiled children (?!) who get interesting new demo sleds to test each winter, we’re frequently asked that question. If the person asking seems like a responsible rider, often our answer is, “Sure, take it until the next stop.”

That, in turn, leads to a trade that puts us on the other person’s sled. That person is virtually always a veteran snowmobiler, which makes us amazed that some of their sleds have such messed-up ergonomics. The throttle will be rotated too high, the brake handle will be too low, the headlight will be illuminating the treetops instead of the trail…

The cool thing about ergonomics is that they are personal, so rider preferences will vary. But still, some folks are putting up with weird wrist angles, odd reaches, unnecessary blasts of air and other hassles that could be fixed with the turn of a few screws or bolts.

Here are nine simple adjustments to consider when prepping your sled for a new season.

1. Handlebar Riser Angle

There are two important adjustments that can be made affecting the location and the rotation of the handlebar.

First, consider the angle of the handlebar riser. It is often controlled by bolts at the bottom of the riser. To alter your setup, loosen the bolts and rotate the riser to a preferred location, then retighten the bolts firmly to spec.

It should be noted, though, that radically changing the riser position relative to the steering post can create some rather odd steering angles and the entire sweep of the handlebar when turning from side-to-side. Therefore, take small steps and go for a short test drive after any alterations.

2. Handlebar Rotation

The angular rotation of the handlebar, meanwhile, is often controlled by the clamp atop the riser. Ski-Doo arguably has the best system, with markings on the handlebar’s center showing the amount of rotation. But any bar can be rotated by loosening the bolts or screws, rotating the bar and retightening the clamps.

When conducting this adjustment, remember that little amounts of rotation make a relatively big change. Also, make sure the bar is centered, left-to-right, before tightening to spec.

3. Throttle Position

If you suffer from wrist discomfort or a sore thumb when riding, sometimes a small adjustment to the throttle block position can make a monstrous difference.

The set screws that secure the throttle block are found in various places on different sleds – on recent Arctic Cat, Ski-Doo and Yamaha sleds they are typically forward-facing, whereas on many Polaris sleds the screw is on the bottom of the throttle block. Either way, merely loosen the set screw(s) enough to be able  the throttle block to rotate on the handlebar, find your preferred spot and retighten. You can also adjust how close or far the throttle is from the handlebar end.

Some riders leave the throttle block a bit loose so its position can be adjusted with moderate force when switching, for instance, from seated trail riding to standing off-trail fun. You defintiely don’t want it sloppy-loose, however.

4. Brake Lever Position

The preferred brake lever position is often related to a rider’s preferred throttle position, though you may want one “high” and the other “low.”

Consider the angle of your wrists in your most frequent riding position (standing vs. sitting) when you reach for the brake handle. Then loosen the set screws that secure the master cylinder and the brake handle and rotate that block to a more comfortable position. Retighten and double check.

Like the throttle, you can often move your brake control laterally on the handlebar, though on some machines there isn’t much available space.

5. Brake Lever Distance

Some snowmobiles over the years have come with an adjustable brake lever that allows you to position the lever either closer or farther from the handlebar. Such adjustment is not as common as it once was, though, so you may have to turn to the aftermarket for this option.

Never, though, confuse the brake lever position with having a soft or spongy feel at the brake handle. Those conditions most often are related to the brake fluid level, air in the brake lines or brake pad wear level. Each of those requires more serious attention.

6. Control Block Location

One often overlooked adjustment is the position of the left-side control block. So many things are now operated with that left-side block that having it all in a comfortable spot is a good idea. Like the others, adjusting it involves loosening set screws or bolts, rotating the block and retightening.

7. Kill Switch Location

Depending on how you ride, the kill switch’s position relative to the handlebar can be important.

Some folks might find that odd, but aggressive ditch bangers and extreme mountain riders know that an unplanned tap on the kill switch can leave you in a rather tenuous position. Therefore, some riders will rotate their kill switch away from the top of the handlebar while keeping it within easy reach.

8. Handguard Location

Last winter we were on a particularly bitter morning ride with a buddy who got off his sled and was flapping his arms trying to return blood flow in his fingertips.

“[Golly], these [gosh darn] handguards are pieces of [feces],” he bellowed. Looking at his handlebar setup, we noted that his guards appeared to be too low. By loosening the mounting bolts and rotating the mounts, he found peace.

9. Headlight Angle

Technically, the headlight angle is not an ergonomic feature. Yet while making the aforementioned adjustments it’s an easy tweak that can improve nighttime riding safety.

The process of adjusting a headlight varies widely between brand and chassis. It most often involves turning a screw or dial, so check your owner’s manual for the exact process.

To properly adjust, place your sled on a flat surface about 25 feet away from a wall or garage door. With a driver roughly your weight seated in the saddle, when in the low-beam setting, you’ll typically want the center of the light at or slightly below the sled’s headlight height. The focus of the high beam setting should be a few inches higher.

Re-check your setting after a ride, as things like rider weight and the rear suspension’s weight transfer will affect the headlight angle in the field.